Grading
The grading system for indoor rock climbing lends itself from the outdoor grading system in the UK as there is no current established indoor system as yet.
At first the grading systems can seem like a periodical table from hell but once you understand what the abbreviations mean it can give you the determination to improve yourself as a climber and athlete.
A periodical table from hell
One thing to remember is that you should climb because you like to, not because you can climb a certain grade.
It's good to push yourself to reach new goals and accomplish new feats but don't ever let that be the sole reason to climb in the first place.
Focus on having fun, learning new things, pushing your limits, and creating experiences with your friends. In time the tricks and techniques you learn will follow.
British Climbing System
For the grading of indoor rock climbing, The British Climbing System will be used. It is the most descriptive of the systems used throughout the world. Remember that walls come in different shapes and sizes, much like people so grades vary depending on where you are. They are meant as a guide and are not "set in stone."
A climb is given two grades:
- the adjective grade - ranges from Moderate to E9. These grades consider the overall difficulty of the climb taking all factors into consideration like the length of the route, overhangs and the type of rock. For indoor climbing this would be considered the type of grips on the wall.
- the technical grade - describes the hardest crux (move on the climb). They range from 3a, 3b, 3c, 4a, 4b, 4c and so on, up to 7b.
The two grades combined give the overall grade for the climb. On some easier routes the technical grade is missed out altogether and in some walls you might notice that there is no 3a, 3b, 3c, 4a, 4b, 4c and that the whole grading starts at 5a. This has been adopted for the table to the right as it is the one recommended by the British Mountaineering Council.
All of these grades are open for debate as there are many, many factors to take note of. Just remember that they are there as a guide!
Conversion Table
The table below outlines the range of technical grades that you would expect to find combined with the different adjective grades.
| Adjective Grade | Explanation | Technical Grade |
| M | Moderate | N/A |
| D | Difficult | N/A |
| VD | Very Difficult | N/A |
| HVD | Hard Very Difficult | N/A |
| MS | Mild Severe | N/A |
| S | Severe | 4a -4b |
| HS | Hard Severe | 4a - 4c |
| MVS | Mild Very Severe | 4a - 4c |
| VS | Very Severe | 4a - 4c |
| HVS | Hard Very Severe | 4c - 5b |
| E1 | Extremely Severe | 5a - 5c |
| E2 | Extremely Severe | 5b - 6a |
| E3 | Extremely Severe | 5c - 6a |
| E4 | Extremely Severe | 6a - 6b |
| E5 | Extremely Severe | 6a - 6c |
| E6 | Extremely Severe | 6b - 6c |
| E7 | Extremely Severe | 6c - 7a |
| E8 | Extremely Severe | 6c - 7a |
| E9 | Extremely Severe | 7a - 7b |
| E10 | Extremely Severe | 7a - 7b |
You may find climbs with grades that fall outside the ranges outlined above. If for instance the crux move on a climb is rated as 5a but the whole climb is not very strenuous and has good protection it could be rated VS 5a. Where as another route with the crux rated as 5a may be very strenuous, with limited protection and long run outs and may warrant a grade of E2 5a.